Tags: z:archive:18th:jacket:ruffled


jacket progress

So ummm… yeah. I’ve been working on my jacket for the past few days. *make mental note to actually update LJ while sewing* I finished putting the bodice together (except for the sleeve hems and hooks & eyes) last night. I’ve been working on the peplum today, admittedly not much. Been one of those days but hey - I caught up on my backlogged emails! A very good thing indeed.

I hand stitched the hem of the peplum and pleated half but when I tried it up against the bodice it doesn’t come around far enough. This is the point at which take out 3.25 inches (actually a total of 6.5”) to fit the pattern pieces within my yardage is starting to hurt. *ouch*

So out those cute, small, full pleats go, in favor of more spaced pleats to fit the bodice correctly. May I just say scrimping fabric totally stinks? The good thing is my linen has some body to it so it shouldn’t look too skimpy. I really should go work on the peplum right now but I’m feeling like just going to bed instead.

In fact I am going to bed instead. My all-day headache is a good enough excuse right? …

starts & stops

Well I decided not to use the purple lining after all.

After looking at it I decided it changed the color of my fabric too much. Not a good thing, especially as I really didn’t want to line the sleeves (for coolness). So I’m back to white cotton. I couldn’t have figured this out before I went to the fabric store for white cotton of course (have to go back now for more) but at least I decided before I’d cut the purple. :>

I’m waiting for my cotton to dry (had to preshrink it) right now. I’ve worked a bit on the red toile en fourreau pleats but my stitching was starting to get sloppy so right now I’m just taking a break.

Why is it on the days you set aside for sewing ou never get much done? I’m more productive when I should really be doing something else! :>

summer frocks begun

After a few days of waffling back and forth I finially cut out my ruffly jacket last night. I’m going to take joysdaughter’s excellent advice and use a thin muslin (or voile or organdy or something) for the ruffle with the original creamy linen. After you made that suggestion I looked through my books and found a few examples and really liked the look of them. You are the best Suzi! :>

I didn’t get much further with the project than that as I had to wash the cotton lining before I could cut it. It's now washed and dried so I'll start my morning by cutting that out. I’ve decided to use a purple lining, just for the fun of it. It won’t ever be seen except perhaps a peek at my neckline.

Unless of course I line the peplum with it which I haven’t decided on yet – what do you think? The peplum probally dosn't need a lining, it should be heavy enough on it’s own. Would the purple be dashing or distracting to you think? I’m going for very stylish with this ensemble you know. :> I also wasen't going to line the sleeves (t keep those long sleeves as cool as possible in the summer) - should I line them so the lining shows a bit at the wrist?

I also started on a new English gown for the summer. I was part of a fashion show presentation on Thursday (much fun by the way!) and the outing brought to home just how inappropriate a dark green wool gown will be on summer outings. So I pulled out my red toile (recognize it jennil? ;>) and started pleating the en fourreau back last night. It will be exactly the same as the green wool, and the green ball gown, and the striped l’anglise… *sigh* I am in a rutt aren’t I?

I almost attempted a sacque this time but I really don’t have time and the fabric is really too light and thin. Sacques need fabric with a bit of weight or drape to them to look right I think. The nice thing about the en fourreau English gown is that I can make them up fast (I should hope so on the forth one!!) and I know they look good. I’m also still making a fashion statement as I’m one of the few in our group who wear the later English style. I push those date boundaries as late as I can, which as a young women I can get away with. :>

Well my tea is gone and Jo-Anns is finally open so I should dash. I have to run out for lining for the red toile English gown, Rigilene for both gown and jacket and something else that has slipped my mind… Wait don’t tell me – it will come to me!! *wink*

Oh yes, I thought you might enjoy seeing the bit of interior decorating I’ve been doing in my office. After 2 years I finally hung up some pictures. Isn’t that sad? I originally bought the book of prints to hang in my bedroom but it's never worked out. I adore the grouping in the office though, appropriately pink & girly for a Mary Kay office without being over the top. It’s also very inspiring for my current projects! :>

To complement I added my engraving of 1770s York, UK and my new dry marker calendar on either side. I have the too high-back chairs back in the sitting room part of my office as well (thanks to B's homecoming and the purchase of a new recliner for Dad) so my office is cozy, inviting and functional once again. *sigh* I love my office. :>

Belmont & jacket dilemma

Despite over doing it a bit (with my sore throat I now have no voice today!) and getting a rather badly sunburned yesterday was glorious. I had a marvelous time and even got my pic in the paper. :>

I didn’t get many pics (none of myself) on my camera but I know Tina did so I’ll ask for a CD of her pics to post. Speaking of - I have some pics from John of Gunston Hall that I will post later today…

When I got home I tried on my ruffly jacket toile, while I had all the petticoats and underwear on. I think the length is perfect and oh so cute! So that was easy. :>

Before I went to bed, I laid out the pieces on my fabric to see if it would fit. I didn’t have much left but luckily it’s 60” wide and I had a second piece left over from the width from the petticoat. After much fiddling and fussing I finally got everything to fit. As you can see I’ll have to take about 2½” of the fullness out of the peplum, but I gathered the pleats on the toile so really it should be just fine.

Of course there is something missing from the picture, if you will notice. The ruffles for the peplum and bottom of the petticoat. There won’t even be enough to piece a ruffle together for the peplum. I am bummed but I think I will go ahead without them. I really have my heart set on using this fabric for the ensemble and really shouldn’t spend money anything else. I’ll still have my lace and ribbon trimming, so I think that will be enough on the jacket. The petticoat will just have to stay plain.

My only fear is that the lack of ruffling will push this ensemble deep into the 1790s – far outside the usual range of RCHS events. Some events I can get away with early 1780s fashions but most events are in the 1770s making 1790s is impossible with this group. (my one complaint!!)

Okay beloved pin posse… what do you think. Should I save the creamy linen for a jacket I’ll get to use more (in a style without peplum or long sleeves to save fabric for some form of ruffling) and try to get another fabric for the ruffled jacket ensemble or stick with what I’ve got (saving money for CC) and just make the ruffled jacket sans ruffle? I can’t figure out the poll thing so replying is fine! :>

jacket toile results

The final sleeve toile #2 fitting and the sleeve toile #3 fitting. There is still a bunchy fullness at the back of the sleeve that is bothering me but I think I can live with it at this point. There is always a certain amount of fullness there, even in period frocks. Besides I’ve had enough messing with it!

The toile as it is tonight. The peplum looks pretty good I think. I need to perfect the shaping (much easier when it’s back to being a flat piece of fabric) and I might lengthen it an inch or so. I need to try it on with a petticoat – it’s hard to determine proportions with pj pants on! I’ll try it on again tomorrow, when I’ll have everything on anyway. :>

I really shouldn’t have stayed up so late finishing the toile, not with Belmont to get ready for in the morning but I didn’t want to waste my momentum. This outfit is really coming along! Next up, I need to trace master patterns and see if I can actually fit everything onto my piece of fabric. *crossing fingers and toes*

jacket sleeve toiles & bee update

The bad news is I'm sick. The good news is it's just an annoying sore throat and cough so I don't feel like doing anything but sewing. Also it isn't anything to prevent me from attending Belmont tomorrow. In fact if it's anything like B's version (cold courtesy of loving sis) it's just a 24 hour malady.

I've been working on my jacket today but before I get into that, here is a pic of my bee dress so far. Actually I've did a bit more since taking that pic. So I'm about 19" along, out of about 45". I really need to toile my dress one of these days so I know the exact length. Details, details!! :>

Ah yes, the ruffly jacket or return to the dratted sleeves. I cut out the pattern from the Northern Society of Costume & Textiles pattern jacket and basted them up a few days ago. They took a bit more fiddling than I expected. They had to be enlarged and lengthened both above and below the elbow (no surprise there) and the elbow to wrist required some shaping/fitting.

I finally got it looking pretty good (pics are of the finial toile #1 fitting this morning), except for the fact that the upper back wasn’t large enough to fit my gown. You can see just how much I added to the top of the sleeve in the pics, the black horizontal marker line was the original top of the front piece. Weird, huh?

So I marked then took the sleeve apart & recut them - adding generously to the upper back (which is actually at the seam). I’ve tried the second sleeve on three times now. You know repining here, adjusting there. I have one small adjustment to make before I try it on for, hopefully, the last time. I took a break for lunch, which ended up being a late lunch and nap so I’m writing this before entering the fray again.

Obviously I won’t be wearing this jacket to Belmont tomorrow, but I may have a chance to wear it Thursday (and of course UTR and CC) so I’m hoping to get the toile finished today.

ruffly goodness begun

I need professional help I really do. Not that anyone on the list doesn’t already know that but I still feel the need to express the thought. I set aside today to sew and what to I do? I spend the day spring cleaning my room, closet and hope chest. *sigh* It felt good to do all that tidying –up but I should have been sewing all day!!

I started my sewing day this evening. *rolls eyes* I started out by trying on my ruffly jacket bodice and it looks perfect. I took my basic robe anglaise lining pattern and simply added some more seams in the back. Easy!

The long sleeves to go with it are turning out to be much more fiddly. I tried using my robe anglaise sleeves as a base but that definitely didn’t work so I pulled out my Northern Society of Costume & Textiles pattern and will use the sleeves from that. I've enlarged them and am killing time here while it prints out.

Have I ever mentioned how much I hate sleeves? :P

Just to refresh your memory I’m making a replica of this outfit from Williamsburg. There are better pics in The Language of Clothing book as well. I’m (hopefully – not sure how much yardage this puppy will take!) making it out of cream linen, leftover from my petticoat. I will trim it with white lace and black grosgrain ribbon. Eventually I want a big black hat à la Sarah Siddons to go with it but I don't think I'll have time to make that for Sunday. Too bad.

Sunday is Seurat Sunday at Belmont. My "Auntie Tina" invited me to join her and a few friends to create a vignette for the occasion. So we will nibble, gossip and play whist all afternoon. I can't wait!

tiny little update

Yep, still alive. Just suffering from acute sewing ADD and a general insane schedule. *sigh*

I did pull out the old sewing machine (for the first time in forever) this weekend. I put together the second toile on the butterfly gown and tried it on. No pics since B had the camera at school but it looked pretty good. I think I’m on the right track. I must admit I miss my basic 18th century shapes and techniques when I work on the butterfly though! :>

I also put together the toile for my 1780s ruffly jacket, or the bodice anyway. I still need to attach the sleeves and then drape the skirt – all of which I will do as soon as I post this note. :> I am going to try and get this made for an event on Sunday.

More about the event and outfit soon… *smile*

Gunston & a new hat

I managed to finish my frock, petticoat and hat for the outing to Gunston Hall on Saturday – yay! I’m very pleased with how my hat came out. It’s quite fetching if I do say so myself. :> I broke down and used the lovely lace I bought at Liberty of London’s two years ago on it too. I'll just have to go back and get some more now. *wink*

The day at Gunston was lovely. There is something almost magical about that property. The people there are so nice and because it’s off by itself on acreage with few modern things laying round (no signs or plaques) it’s easy to forget there is a world outside. The Gunston events are definitely my favorites!

The day started out rainy but it turned out to be a gorgeous spring day, if rather windy. We all had a hard time keeping our hats and caps on! It was a little chilly at times so my wool frock turned out to be perfect.

We wondered around both the American and Highlanders camps, watched the battle reenactment and did some demo dancing. Once the park closed we ate picnic lunches and then danced with the soldiers and sailors. It was very strange to be outnumbered by guys, usually it’s mostly girls in our group! It was one of our esteemed musician’s birthday so we had cake and the lady who portrays Martha Washington (at Mount Vernon) and Gen Cornwallis (among other things in Williamsburg) came up for the occasion too. I wish I could have stayed for the candlelight tour of the house but I had to sing at church the next morning and stay awake on the drive home (I drove home). It was a truly delightful, if long, day though. :>

I was very inspired by one of the Gunstonian’s frocks. I was a total ditz and didn’t take any pics of her outfit but it was an almost exact replica of a jacket/petticoat from the Williamsburg collection. It will be perfect for the Under the Redcoat weekend in June. Out of the leftover cream linen from my petticoat, trimmed in black and with a big black hat, perfect I say!! *rubs hands together*

I couldn’t sleep last night so I started on a toile for the jacket. I took my robe a l'Anglaise lining pattern and used that as my base. I cut the front just the same but split the back into two slightly curved seams, like the original. I also lengthened the sleeves.

This evening, while I had all the toile making stuff out, I corrected and recut the second toile for the butterfly gown. So that is all ready for a second try.

this & that

Wow, it’s been a crazy few days, what with Harry Potter, a career change (more on that later), RCHS planning meetings and some serious house cleaning. All in all I haven’t had much time to work on costuming.

What time I’ve had I’ve been using to work on the design for my quilted petticoat. I’ve been trying to come up with a design ditty similar to the one on pg 24 of Costume in Detail. I wanted something like it to fill in my main feather design. I’m a bit discouraged about the whole idea now as I don’t really like anything I’ve come up with so far. Blah I say!

Since I’m having such bad design-block I think I’m just going to set the whole thing aside for a while. To be honest I’m getting less and less enthused over the whole project. Part of it is that there is slim chance that I will finish it in time for the ball (the original concept). I was thinking I would try having it done for the Christmas season but at the moment there are other projects I’d rather be working on. Maybe I should just save it for later or make it one of those no-deadline leisurely-pace type things.

I am pretty motivated to try and get that cream jacket done for September though. I was originally going to be a servant at the RCHS fall tea, but now I’ll be a table hostess. This means I can wear something nice instead of a lower-sorts type outfit. *wicked grin* I’m really thinking a 1770s jacket with an embroidered stomacher (red roses and bees in crewel) is in order, don’t you? :>

I’ve been scheming about this project for a few weeks now (could you tell? *hee hee*) but I’ve made the command decision that I won’t start it until I’ve got the pirate stays mocked up and ready to be made. It’s not that I don’t have anything to wear (can’t use that excuse any more!) and it will be the motivation to work on B’s costume which I seem to require these days. :> So no guarantees on this one!