Tags: z:archive:14th:faire:garb


back on the wagon

I finally managed to break out of my “slump” and get some sewing done today. I fixed the shoulder straps of the Faire Garb and attached the front to the back. It may not sound like much but it took forever. One of those totally boring, fiddly bits of sewing - no wonder I put if off all week! :> I much feel better for having gotten past it.

I started work on the sleeves too but I forgot I was going to make them reversible and tried to flatline them. Gee… anyone seen my brain wondering around lately? Bah! So I had to pick out, re-pin and so forth. They aren’t quite done but I think I know what I am doing now…

I also slapped together a dress diary for the ensemble, Faire Garb. I even got some mending done today. Not my mending of course, but I’m getting paid to do this lot. Money is always good, especially when one is going antiquing with girlfriends on Monday. *wink*

Oh yes and a new icon made by yours truly. I saw another icon based on this painting earlier this week and remembered how much I loved the image. The other icon wasn’t quite what I wanted, so I made one of my own. You gotta love those red heads in flowing gowns!

attaching the bodice linings

I sewed the front and back bodices to their respective linings this evening. I apparently made a mistake on the shoulder straps though, as they don’t match (the front is wider than the back). So before I can join the shoulders, I’ll have to redo the front, turning it inside-out again and trimming a little. No big. I also got the sleeves pinned so they are ready to be sewn.

I had to try the corded bodice on tonight to double check something on the bodice, so I took some pics. Mom was available to lace me up nice and tight but wasn’t available to take pics so I took them in the bathroom mirror again. :>

I have some of that blue cotton left over from the sleeves so I think I use it for binding of the CB. I’ve always like the combination of blue and yellow. :>

Ren Garb updates

Once again I’m behind with the Ren Garb updates and again I’m sorry for it.

July 24

I finally got around to pinning and attaching the ribbon to the bodice today. All of the trim was attached by hand. Ouch! I really need to learn to use a thimble! :<

The front was fun to piece and everything. I had some issues trying to match the curve in the back but eventually got it to work. The key was many pins, hand sewing and then lots of steam. Steam pressing really is a beautiful thing. It makes me look like I know what I’m doing more often than I actually do. :>

I need to look at some pics and see if I want to add trim to the sleeves. I’m thinking I may just leave them untrimmed. That way I can save the ribbon for tieing on the sleeves, or maybe even to trim the bottom of the skirt.

July 22

I have been waffling with myself all week about that rose linen. I’ve changed my mind about 10 times already. Yesterday I was all ready to use it and this morning I didn’t like it anymore. I thought very seriously about using it, just as one side of a reversible sleeve (per ktlovely’s suggestion. My thought was, if I decided I didn’t like it with the rust I could always wear it with the purple wool.

In the end, however I decided that I agreed with elegant_musings’s comment that it was ”just a little to 'eh'”. I wasn’t sold on the green I had found the stash though. So I raided the scrap bin. Why I didn’t think of that sooner, I really don’t know! I found a green rayon I liked much better, as well as a light blue I thought would be a fun contrast. I have to line the sleeves anyway so I figure I might as well make some fun reversible sleeves. I then raided the ribbon stash and found some pretty green ribbon that goes with the green rayon perfectly. I tried going with more subdued, dark purples and black trims but they just looked drab. The effect of the greens, rust and blue is bright and fun and I’m happy. Bridget doesn’t like it, but then again she hasn’t said anything positive about the whole outfit yet so I’m ignoring her on it. Whatever.

I cut out the new sleeves, as well as the bodice lining, which I had forgotten. I also finished putting the skirt together today. Sewing the linen/rayon pieces was less traumatic than I feared it would be. That fabric really is a pain! I’m so glad that is the last piece of it in the house, as I don’t plan on ever working with it again!

I was afraid the linen/rayon/cotton lined results might be too limp. Unfortunately I didn’t have any felt or wool laying around (the two suggestions I’d read online) so I just used some iron-on interfacing. I actually used waist-band interfacing, cutting it in half and ironing it on. The skirt is hanging up now, all ready to be cartridge pleated. Fun, fun!

July 21
I started on the skirt today. I didn’t get too far on it though, just got the cotton lining put together and pressed. I also machine basted the rust and muslin interlining bodice pieces together. I’ve experienced the slipping, stretching and overall naughtiness of linen/rayon in the past. Mounting the rotten stuff to an interlining seemed a prudent step.

fabric confessions

lj-raw> G Streets is one of those places where I have very little will-power, particularly when it comes to the bargain table. Today I had none at all. I knew I was in trouble when the section was piled high with fabric, more than I had ever seen there before. Very scary! I found some pretty rose linen, which in the store I loved with the rust of the Ren Garb. However, now that I am home doubts have begun to creep in. Do you think the two look okay together? I know it’s hard with different monitors and such but do they clash or maybe blend too much? Should I just go with the green cotton from the stash? I know I just asked for your opinion on the rust but I’m feeling very unsure of this rose and would really appreciate any advice. I also found some pretty peach organdy. It’s a poly I’m sure but it was the thickness I wanted for my partlet. Now I just have to figure out how to make one. I may use it for a hair caul too… at the moment I want to try hair taping so I may not need one. My big splurge of the day was the champagne colored satin. Isn’t it luscious! It’s a poly of some kind but it feels like butter and drapes out of this world. I could not pass it up, on the bargain table no less! I now have 5yds that I have no idea what I’ll do with. Well, I do have a few ideas… *evil grin* Tops on the list is an 18th century dress or a kimono. I’m rather tempted to chuck the red stripe aside and use this satin (with the green silk as a petticoat) instead. I’m even more tempted to make the red as a test-run and then move up to the satin as a full blown evening frock. The kimono is tempting too. I’ve wanted one like in the film Titanic for a long time. Of course my original plans were for a black one with gold beading... I’ve decided I want to throw a good old fashioned slumber party for my birthday (in October). A perfect occasion to wear the kimono. Recreating the wrapper Myra Loy wears in The Thin Man (when Nick punches her out of the line of fire) would be fun too. As would a overdress for an Empire gown. Oh, a 1912 dress would be pretty too. Not to mention… Ack! I can see this is going to take some pondering! I finished cutting the gown tonight and plan to start sewing tomorrow. I did angle the skirt panels a bit. I laid them out, measured 6” from one edge, angled it down to the bottom with a yard stick and cut away. I didn’t want anything too complicated (not being dedicated enough to do tons of seams like Jen :>) but I did want the bottom to flare a bit more than the last gown. While I worked I threw that linen in the wash. I’m thinking it may be a blend. Now that it’s wet it does feel totally natural, if you know what I mean. No big. I still love the color.

cutting the Garb

I was going to be good and get some everyday stuff done today, then sew on Wednesday (going shopping at PM tomorrow) but after seeing all the loveliness in elegant_musings LJ I couldn't stand it and cut out my Ren Garb dress. :>

After much drooling over Miss C's frock, I decided to lengthen the bodice of my dress a bit. I really love the fitted, pointed waist of her gown. As I started looking at paintings again this morning, I noticed that some of the waists in the late 15th century (my "aim") were lower as well, if all rounded. A bit of length was an easy adjustment so I went for it. The waist is about 1.5 inches above the waist now, rather than the higher waist of the original pattern.

The rust overwhelmingly won the vote (thanks so much ladies - you are the best!) so that is what I cut. I'm excited to wear this color, I love it so! I especially love what it does for my complexion and hair. *wink*

Bridget and I had some shopping to do tonight so I only got as far as cutting the rust fabric before I had to stop. I left the skirt panels as rectangles but I’m thinking about shaping them. Still pondering that… I still have the lining and sleeves to cut. For the lining I'm using a "tea" colored muslin I've had for years. I have tons of it, it's easily replaced if I need it someday and I'm ready to get it off the shelf.

I pulled out some options for the sleeves out of the fabric stash, notably a light purple polished cotton but I'm going to wait to cut them out until after my trip to G Streets tomorrow. Maybe I'll find something better on the bargain table...

Faire Garb

I tried on my corded bodice for the first time today. Overall I’m pleased. The gap in the back is a good 3.5 inches but I’m cool with that. Maybe I’ll get to wear this one more than once this time. :> Also I wasn’t able to get it laced as tight as I wanted. I’ll need assistance for that. I decided I wasn’t hip on the sleeves after all so I’m going to cut them off entirely. I didn’t have anyone around to take pics so I tried the old, take them with a mirror trick. Worked pretty well, although the back shot is a bit blurry.

I also sewed up the gown bodice toile and tried that over the corded bodice. It fits perfectly. For those of you that have made the side lacing gowns, should I have some gap there? If so I need to cut the pattern down a bit.

I does occur to me that I am a bit crazy to be making this gown on such short notice. At least I’m not crazy enough to try and make it perfect and accurate. I did want to try the side-lacing things though. It’s something I haven’t done yet.

On the whole, I’m trying not to do anything too wild and unfamiliar – that is where I get bogged down in projects and end up stressed and finishing the gown at 3am the day of. I think I can risk the side lacing though, it seems a simple enough alteration. :>

I want something with simple decoration, few accessories and small sleeves. I also wanted to use the same pattern I used for the purple wool. That narrowed me down to the earlier Italian Ren period, the late 15th century. I always end up there so I guess it is my favorite. :>

If I can be accused of modeling my gown after anything, it would be this yellow gown. It’s so simple and pretty. I hate the cap (I’ll have to come up with something else) but I like the little partet. I don’t know that I will have time to make one though.

Now that the bodice toile is ready to go I need to decide what fabric to use. Any votes between the rusty brown linen/rayon and the khaki rayon twill? I am having a hard time deciding and I really should so I can cut the gown out. The rust makes my hair turn a gorgeous red and it looks like a period fabric even if it’s a blend. The khaki is a lighter and therefore cooler color for summer and it would drape nicely.

Any votes?

catch-up on the ren garb

I've been lazy about this Ren Garb dress diary, forgive me. I'm still having issues with my camera and rather than deal with them I've spent the time sewing and cleaning the house. I gave in this morning and spent most of the morning trying to figure out the problem but no luck. I'm going to try and get Dad to look at it for me today. It's so frustrating, one day the program was working just fine and now it's giving me fits. Luckily we have more than one computer in the house. :> 

July 16th

I spent my sewing time today working the eyelets on the bodice. They are all done now and look pretty good. I didn't spend a lot of time on them but they are still better than those nasty grommets. I hate those things! Anyway, with the eyelets in it's all ready to be tiered on and have a dress toile fitted over it...

July 15th

I cut and attached the lining to the corded bodice today. I very scientifically laid the bodice on an old sheet and cut around it. Okay, so I did line up the grain first. :> Old sheets are wonderful things!

I attached the lining to the two back edges. I then decided to add steel boning to the side seams. I was really pleased with the results of doing this last time. I had to wrestle with the pieces a bit to sew a length of bone casing to the inside of the lining. I love out it's so tidy on both the out and inside now. Very much worth the effort. *giggle* I then ran a basting stitch all round the bodice edges to keep the lining in place before I get the binding on. I thought I had some left-over purple binding from the last corded bodice but apparently not. I can't find it anyway. I think I'm going to wait to bind the bodice until after I work on the dress a bit. I want to make sure the bodice won't show at all and I want to see which fabric I end up using. I don't want a dark binding to show beneath that khaki. Very tacky. 

July 13th

I found the pics from yesterday, the ones I thought were gone forever. By some oversight, they hadn't been erased from the camera yet so I was able to get them again. Yay!

full of hemp

I spent my morning at the dentist, and the rest of the day recovering. He had to give me lots of that numbing stuff and my jaw, where I was jabbed, really hurts. Crown preps - bah! Whatever that numbing stuff is, it always whacks me out for the rest of the day. I stay very loopy and just out of it for hours– worse than normal if you can imagine. (No comments from the peanut gallery!)

Luckily cording channels is very brainless and almost relaxing work. I kept to an uncomplicated pattern; no one ended diagonal channels. I’m trying to keep things simple with my deadline fast approaching.

Once the bodice was full of hemp, I ran a basting stitch through the bottom (so nothing gets pulled out of place) and trimmed the edges. I left the sleeves as I didn’t want to deal with them in my post dentist loopy state. Unfortunately the photos I took today as I worked have disappeared. It’s rather complicated, at least for my fuzzy brain, but I think they were deleted when I tried to transfer them from Dad’s computer. As in wiped off the face of the earth without a trace. This is one of those moments when I hate technology.


I worked on my pocket a little today too. Yesterday I did some testing and figured out how to do the carnation. Today I worked on it, mostly while waiting at the dentist’s office. I doing know why, but handwork makes the time go by faster than a book. It was nice to have a project small enough to be portable. My handwork lately has been on large, bulky garments, not good to take on office visits or babysitting jobs. :>

corded bodice so far

I finished sewing the channels today. I also sewed the seams on the bodice. I’m going to cord the channels and then trim everything at once. I still need to cut out the lining and find the binding…

The close-up is of the outside of the seam. After I sewed the seam I graded the ends down a bit, then ironed it towards the back and tacked it down about half way through the seam. It made it much flatter and less bulky. Yes and the first pic is from Saturday, before I finished the channels.

more cording channels

I finished fitting the corded bodice toile today. I ended up taking 3" off the original pattern. Every time I tried it on it was too big or didn't provide a gap, so I kept cutting it down. Not that I have probably lost 3 whole inches since October 2002 (when the pattern was originally drafted) as I had to take the stretching of the fabric into account in those 3 inches. Still it's pretty cool! :>

I started sewing the channels this evening. I didn't actually cut out the second mustard twill layer. I barrowed a technique from Mara Riley's site of basting the cut lining pieces to an uncut section of fashion fabric. I was thinking of constructing my 18th century stays this way so I made the bodice a bit of a "guinea pig project". So far I’m happy with the technique.

I finished the front panel but made a mistake when I started on the side pieces. I forgot to change the setting on my machine and sewed several rows with a large basting stitch. I'll have to re-do those. It was a sure sign I needed to stop for the night so I have. I took pics of what the bodice looks like tonight but my computer is giving me fits when I try to load the pics. I'll fiddle with it in the morning when I'm not so sleepy...