Today ended up being a good toile day – I got lots done and am feeling more content with this project than I have in a while. I started out by trying on v1.0 of the Arnold toile again. My idea of only pushing *some* (1½") of the fullness in front and removing the rest from the side, turned out to be a sound one and resulted in the best fit so far. With Mom’s assistance I pinned up the sides and tweaked the shoulder strap.
I then took the toile apart and using the pinned side, recut another side modification.
The fitting of Arnold v1.1 was fairly painless. I ended up shaping the center front a bit. The seam is definitely curved not straight but as I’m going for a later 1780s look, it’s okay. Hopefully the stripes at the center front will look interesting and not silly. :>
The sides gave me some fits, until I let the seam out a bit at the very bottom. Dratted hips, or I should say my natural bum roll! :>
Before I was finished I took a few full-length pictures so I could better judge the proportions of the gown. I think the bodice would be easier to fit if I raised the bodice up a bit (a fit sans hips) but I’m afraid of appearing short waisted. For some reason, I have a tendency to look so in the 18th century mode although I’m in fact slightly long waisted. Anyway, I think the proportions look good as is, so I’m determined to tweak through the longer bodice…
I have to admit puzzling out how to split the side modification and add the correct width to the bottom while still retaining a flat pattern piece took me a little while to ponder. I did eventually figure out how and where to add but I had begin despair and had to walk away from it first. :P
The fitting of Arnold v1.2 was good and I think I’m about finished with the bodice. Just a few tweaks more and I’m ready to tackle the armhole and sleeve area. I’m not entirely happy with the fit of the back but as I’m going to cover it with an en fourreau
style back anyway, I’m not going to worry about it. The bodice appears a bit wrinkly when it’s not all pinned down but in reality it does fit and smooth over my stays nicely. I think once it has a skirt attached - weighted down a bit - the results will be just fine.
*sigh* Can you tell I’m ready just to move on and have a finished frock? *chucks perfectionism out the window and smiles blissfully*