Jenny La Fleur
begining again - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
begining again

Now that the butterfly appliqué is finished, I’ve decided to take a break from the 20th century for a while and pursue my 18th century ventures. I’d love to be working on both really, as I’m excited and motivated by both projects but I find I’m not good at juggling two such different (and untried) styles at the same time. My brain seems to work best focusing on only one century at a time, particularly when I don’t know what I am doing. :> So back to the 18th century we go. I don’t need the opera dress for another 10 months and I figure I should work on the robe l’anglaise while all the info from the draping class is still fresh.

My second momentous decision is to forget the 1770s navy wool for the moment and switch back to my 1780s red stripe. As gorgeous as the wool is, I just not motivated by it. It seems a terrible sacrilege (especially as I demonstrated much lip quivering and eyelash batting at Mom to get it) but there you are. I want to revisit the wool project someday (if and when I have a good excuse to do so) but right now I think following through on my original plan of the fall is the best thing. My original plan, with a few modifications that is. *wink*

After I’d geared myself up by watching L’Anglaise et le Duc and flipping through my 18th century clothing library, I began by trying on both toiles (the original striped toile I draped by myself and the lining from the draping class) to evaluate them.

Really, my solo attempt really wasn’t that bad. In fact I’m quite proud of it - the lines of the front neckline are especially pretty. The class toile definitely has the prettier back; with the sewed down pleats and more curved side seam Mara had drawn for me. (Although looking through my library, the straighter seam I originally used seems to be equally period correct.) The shoulder and sleeves on both toiles have separate issues but I think with my class notes and a bit more research, I can sort out that area without too much difficulty. So I will combine the two toiles, taking the elements I liked best from each and going from there.

Although the class demonstrated how to put a frock together without any toiles, I’m still not that brave, not yet. I’m just more comfortable working out issues in scrap fabric, especially dratted sleeves. Besides I don’t have enough of the stripe to waste on any pesky mistakes. I may have to do some creative piecing as it is. I’m looking forward to the challenge of it though. :>


2 comments | comment?
h_wimsey From: h_wimsey Date: February 18th, 2005 11:31 am (UTC) (link)
You're saying you're not brave enough to put together a frock without a toile. . .

. . . and I'm saying there are people who can put together successful frocks without toiles?!? They must be costuming goddesses.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: February 18th, 2005 12:32 pm (UTC) (link)
Costuming goddesses or just very experienced and brave. Yep, apparently it can be done if you know what you are doing. You use the lining as your fitting toile essentially. Hunnisett mentions the same technique (in vol 2 I think), using the lining as the toile.

I'd like to do it one day - skipping toiles sounds like heaven - but this is not the project to try it on. That's my excuse anyway and I'm sticking to it! :>
2 comments | comment?