Jenny La Fleur
tweaks & toiles - Jenny La Fleur — LiveJournal
adventures in costuming
tweaks & toiles

The second fitting of the ETD gown went pretty well. The bodice foundation just needed a couple of tweaks in the fitting here and there. After looking at my inspiration gowns and Arnold again (and referancing Nicole's & Katherine's versions of this bodice) I realized I probably cut the neckline a little low so I’ll need to fix that in the next toile.

The "sleeve" layer toileing, which will be out of crinkle chiffon, went pretty well too. I started with the under bodice from my now defunct Peacock Dress, which used the bodice from my Erte gown (which was in turn based on the Sense & Sensibility 1911 Kimono Dress pattern). Luckily for me I was smart and kept not only the master pattern I'd created for that project but the last toile as well so I was able to quickly sew that up and try it on yesterday. I noted the adjustments needed (the size - too small now - moo! and the sleeve length) and cut a new toile.

The updated toile looked pretty good, just tweaking really. So all that work on a dress that never was wasn’t wasted! The biggest change was to opt for gathers at the center front rather than the darts of the Peacock bodice. The gathered should be really pretty in the soft chiffon.

I quickly took off the toile, made some of the fitting adjustments (like bringing up the kimono sleeve under the arm to create a more fitted look), tried it on a again and marked further adjustments. The sleeves need to be shorter, the bodice bottom needs to be evened out. So new toiles were cut and sewn so I'm all ready for the next fitting...

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4 comments | comment?
mlsdesigns From: mlsdesigns Date: March 14th, 2012 02:20 pm (UTC) (link)
I wish I could be as organised as you! Some of my patterns aren't even labelled! let alone updated when I re-fit something!
I'm making my sleeves from chiffon too, what are you doing about the straps of your undies showing?
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: March 15th, 2012 01:46 pm (UTC) (link)
Really it's laziness - I hate having to refit or adjust something the same way twice. :>

They are just going to show. I'm going to make all my straps out of silk ribbon (inculding my chemise) so hopefully it won't be too distracting but really I see no way to avoid it...
mlsdesigns From: mlsdesigns Date: March 16th, 2012 08:53 pm (UTC) (link)
Yes, they have to be there, and if I want to use sea through fabric they'll have to be seen. I do like your idea of the subtle use of silk ribbons :)
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: March 15th, 2012 06:10 pm (UTC) (link)
Looking great!
4 comments | comment?