Jenny La Fleur
Victorian fitting fail - Jenny La Fleur — LiveJournal
adventures in costuming
Victorian fitting fail
pinkdiamond From: pinkdiamond Date: April 23rd, 2011 03:22 pm (UTC) (link)
Do I see a straight centre front there? The CF seam on this period is all curvy and wonky looking for a reason and modern patterns never feature it (basically because you can't pattern it as it is a consequence of fitting).

Leave the sides as they are and unpin the shoulders- if you look at Patterns of Fashion and extant (stripy) garments you'll see just how differently they are shaped through there. If you follow a stripe from side bust it winds up mid shoulder or even higher. Another feature modern patterns don't have. You fit from sides up through the shoulder and sides through to centre pinching out the excess fabric-- quite the opposite of modern fitting where we smooth from Cf to sides.
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jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 23rd, 2011 06:34 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks so much for this - very helpful! This makes a lot of sense with what I'm seeing in Arnold and Waugh. Now I just have to figure out how to make it work on my body...
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girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: April 23rd, 2011 07:11 pm (UTC) (link)
Exactly! My center front seams are always curved. Its the only way I can get a good fit through the bust.

Good luck!
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