Jenny La Fleur
Victorian fitting fail - Jenny La Fleur — LiveJournal
adventures in costuming
Victorian fitting fail
sewaddicted From: sewaddicted Date: April 23rd, 2011 03:04 pm (UTC) (link)
Wow, I got this pattern to fit fairly quickly ... probably through ignorant beginners luck!

Did you pick the front & back pattern sizes based on the instructions? Thanks to my Vast Acreage i found no way to avoid some form of horizontal dart so I placed it at bust point level. Thanks to my print it's not obvious, and drew a square neckline onto my mockup.¤t=IMG_3333LadyPSewaddictedMisskikkika.jpg

If it's too loose in the waist I found I could deepening the darts significantly, and I would have added a 3rd one if needed. I had to raise the shoulder about 3/4" - something I have to do in modern clothes too

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jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 23rd, 2011 06:40 pm (UTC) (link)
Yeah that is one of the problems I'm trying to solve, fitting a decent sized bust without a horizontal dart. I’m not having good luck so far but has to be possible... I'm not seeing any extant examples with horizontal darts at the bust, along the waist yes but not the bust.

I'm also trying to change the neckline and shorten the darts. Every time I get on of those things looking good I'm at square one with another. It's been a vicious cycle... *sigh*
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sewaddicted From: sewaddicted Date: April 24th, 2011 01:14 am (UTC) (link)
I actually had to grade the front piece out a couple of sizes from the largest due to my Vast Acreage and I wasn't convinced that it would be an effective method. My thoughts were probably "how on earth is this going to work".

My horizontal dart is between the bust points, as my main issue was a gaping neckline. I'm sure I've seen it on something period, which is why I thought of it. I could have eased the neckline onto a stay tape but that seemed like a lot of work & would be easier in wool than cotton, and easier in a V or U neckline than in a square.

Wishing you fortuna in getting it to work without much more angst
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