Jenny La Fleur
flying eureka - Jenny La Fleur — LiveJournal
adventures in costuming
flying eureka

Yesterday was a good day. Church was really good and then isabelladangelo came over for an afternoon of sewing and chatting. It was wonderful to have her company while I worked on my Flying Dress.

I started work on the Flying Dress in earnest last week. I pulled out the Simplicity pattern and went to work cutting out toiles. I decided that I really wanted the jacket to be separate (probably not the way the original was) so I could have the option of taking it off if I get too warm. Hello velvet!

So I cut out a toile for an under-dress using the S&S Tea Gown pattern. It made sense to me since I've used the pattern a couple of times and liked it, plus it has an inset like the Flying Dress.

The fitting on the under bodice was a breeze (didn't need to change much besides lengthening the bodice and changing the inverted "V" in the back). The jacket on the other hand... it was bad. Not only was it huge (6" of ease!) but it just didn't fit. Simplicity did a really quick and dirty job of grading up that pattern. Mreh.

So yesterday I got as far as padding out my dress form, so I could drape a new front. Then I had a question about the armhole. Period things tend to have a high armhole while the Simplicity pattern had a very low armhole. So I went to my folder of images to see if Simplicity was out of whack (per usual) or if that was correct.


That is when I had my eureka moment. As I was looking at armhole placement it hit me that there were no seams at the shoulder. The Flying Jacket does not have set-in sleeves, it's has kimono sleeves. *laaaaaaa* Another review of my DVD and it was super obvious. How is it I never noticed that before???!!

It really is amazing how many things I never noticed on this frock until I decided to recreate it. Seriously I am a naturally a detail oriented type person, I notice little things. So it's been a bit of a shock - like what else am I missing in life?! :P Wait until I show you guys what is going on with the skirt... it's really blowing me away!

Anyway another review of the DVD and isabelladangelo and I were sure that not only was it a kimono cut bodice with bracelet length sleeves but there is no back seam as well. I had to lay out my velvet with the S&S pattern on the table to wrap my mind around how that is possible but it is totally possible. Sweet!

So it seems that using the S&S pattern with this outfit was not crazy at all! I pulled out the toile I'd made for the underdress, picked out the darts (I don't see any darts in the jacket) and used it for a fitting. I then cut out a new set of underdress and jacket toiles before calling it a night.

So exciting...


8 comments | comment?
padawansguide From: padawansguide Date: November 29th, 2010 04:41 pm (UTC) (link)
Wow, that really is a revelation! I will have to make a note of that!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 30th, 2010 01:43 pm (UTC) (link)
I know, how is it we never noticed it before?! :>
unclrashid From: unclrashid Date: November 29th, 2010 04:54 pm (UTC) (link)
I'm kinda surprised that Simplicity was that accurate! I never noticed the kimono sleeves, but that was very common. I have a fascinating book (whose title I don't recall) about the influence of Asian costume (and the kimono in particular) on costume of that period.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 30th, 2010 01:49 pm (UTC) (link)
Well actually the Simplicity pattern isn't very accurate at all. It looks okay until you start using it or really researching. I could have saved myself some muslin if I’d realized the jacket didn’t have set-in sleeves sooner. Overall it's not been as useful as I'd hoped, I'm having to modify or ditch every element as I go along. Oh well!

It makes perfect sense though, Orientalism being so popular in the culture at that time. It's one of the things I love about this period, it's one of the more inserting Western takes on the Orient (particularly Japan) that has come along I think. It also makes sense from a film perspective, almost all of Rose's other costumes are cut with kimono sleeves.
sewphisticate From: sewphisticate Date: November 29th, 2010 05:47 pm (UTC) (link)
Great catch on the sleeves! And I do remember this pattern being huge...honestly, what person in their right mind wants a 6-inch ease?
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 30th, 2010 01:50 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks! I know I was in shock when I read that on the pattern. I don't think the adverage pair of sweat pants has 6" of ease!!!
muddled_musings From: muddled_musings Date: December 1st, 2010 02:01 pm (UTC) (link)
Oh wow--I love those "aha!" moments when you notice something that you never did before. I am really intrigued to see how your version differs from some of the Simplicity-made ones I've seen; I dare say it's going to be a far more flattering fit. There is something really nice about velvet and kimono sleeves, imho. Very elegant, I guess! ;)

♥ Casey | blog
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: December 2nd, 2010 01:46 pm (UTC) (link)
It's going to differ quite a bit from all the repros I've seen, especially since I've never seen a kimono sleeve repro. I think it will suit the velvet quite nicely. Mine isn't silk velvet, like the original, so I'll lose some of the soft drapeyness of the film version but I think it will be okay. One nice thing is there are barely any seams, which with velvet is awesome!
8 comments | comment?