I started work on the Flying Dress in earnest last week. I pulled out the Simplicity pattern and went to work cutting out toiles. I decided that I really wanted the jacket to be separate (probably not the way the original was) so I could have the option of taking it off if I get too warm. Hello velvet!
So I cut out a toile for an under-dress using the S&S Tea Gown pattern. It made sense to me since I've used the pattern a couple of times and liked it, plus it has an inset like the Flying Dress.
The fitting on the under bodice was a breeze (didn't need to change much besides lengthening the bodice and changing the inverted "V" in the back). The jacket on the other hand... it was bad. Not only was it huge (6" of ease!) but it just didn't fit. Simplicity did a really quick and dirty job of grading up that pattern. Mreh.
So yesterday I got as far as padding out my dress form, so I could drape a new front. Then I had a question about the armhole. Period things tend to have a high armhole while the Simplicity pattern had a very low armhole. So I went to my folder of images to see if Simplicity was out of whack (per usual) or if that was correct.
</a>That is when I had my eureka moment. As I was looking at armhole placement it hit me that there were no seams at the shoulder. The Flying Jacket does not have set-in sleeves, it's has kimono sleeves. *laaaaaaa* Another review of my DVD and it was super obvious. How is it I never noticed that before???!!
It really is amazing how many things I never noticed on this frock until I decided to recreate it. Seriously I am a naturally a detail oriented type person, I notice little things. So it's been a bit of a shock - like what else am I missing in life?! :P Wait until I show you guys what is going on with the skirt... it's really blowing me away!
Anyway another review of the DVD and isabelladangelo and I were sure that not only was it a kimono cut bodice with bracelet length sleeves but there is no back seam as well. I had to lay out my velvet with the S&S pattern on the table to wrap my mind around how that is possible but it is totally possible. Sweet!
So it seems that using the S&S pattern with this outfit was not crazy at all! I pulled out the toile I'd made for the underdress, picked out the darts (I don't see any darts in the jacket) and used it for a fitting. I then cut out a new set of underdress and jacket toiles before calling it a night.