Jenny La Fleur
sleeve fitting - yucky! - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
sleeve fitting - yucky!

May I start out by saying that I hate dealing with sleeves? I really do. *sigh* Today didn’t go too badly, it was just very tedious.

The first sleeve needed a lot of work, as I had anticipated. For once I had the placement in the armhole on target the first time so that was good. The back of the sleeve puffed out a lot for some reason and it took me three tries to get that wretched thing fixed.

I took the sleeve out, took the fabric in ½” at the puffy part and moved the back pleats up onto the shoulder a bit more. I also added elbow darts and took the front bodice in a bit more (at the strap seam).

The second toile looked pretty darn perfect in front. The bottom sleeve dart was a little snug but the three little elbow darts were perfect. The back was still puffy.

Mom had some very good suggestions this time around. The first was to take in the back strap seam in a bit, 3/8 on the sleeve side. I then used larger (¼”) pleats, changing the direction so that they faced the back. I again took the fabric in ½” at the puffy part.

The finial fitting looked pretty good. I’ve noticed that these type of sleeves tend to “puff” at that spot, I think it’s just part of the design. I’m afraid that if I take any more fullness out of the sleeves, they will be too restrictive or uncomfortable. So, even though I haven’t eliminated that darned puff completely, I have it to a size I can live with…

I've also decided I like the neckline afterall. I guess I’m ready transfer the pattern onto interfacing and cut out the real thing… now that’s an exciting thought!! :>


7 comments | comment?
(Deleted comment)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 16th, 2004 02:53 pm (UTC) (link)
Actually, I have seen some examples of the up & down stripes in the 1780-1790s. I know there are some examples in Revolution in Fashion (in the back) but I can't remember offhand the other references. The up and down striped sleeves seem to be especially popular in the 90s, in both men and women's wear. Earlier in the century though, you are totally right - one only sees the stripes around the arm.

Having said that, I am planning to do the stripes around the arm, as I think they are fun. Besides, it's a more economical use of the fabric and I'm going to need every inch to eek out this gown! :>
lizcostumes From: lizcostumes Date: November 16th, 2004 02:12 pm (UTC) (link)
That fit looks perfect! Very pretty. Great fabric for a toile, btw!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 16th, 2004 02:57 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks! The fabric... yeah well I never turn down free fabric especially for toile use. :>
eldawen345 From: eldawen345 Date: November 16th, 2004 02:17 pm (UTC) (link)
The fit looks perfect! I love the stripe fun for a toile. The zipper idea is a really good one...I'd never thought of that before. Will definitely be using that on future mock-ups. I too hate sleeves. They always give me trouble.

Oh, and that binding on your stays is so incredibly even around all those fiddly tabs...lovely.

Best of luck on the bodice!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 16th, 2004 03:06 pm (UTC) (link)
Yeah, the striped toile has been fun. Useful too.

I hope you find the zipper idea helpful. I end up using one on most of my projects, no matter how they will ultimately be fastened. I find it much easier to deal with and visualize when having to fit something by myself.

I must admit I'm very proud of those tabs. They took long enough! :> I'm a slow hand sewer I'm afraid.
elegant_musings From: elegant_musings Date: November 16th, 2004 03:24 pm (UTC) (link)
Wow--the fit looks great on you! After chatting yesterday evening about our respective 18th century projects, I'm starting to get in the mood to take up my stays again and finish them. ;) lol. Maybe I'll bring the stays with me this weekend and work on the eyelets in my free moments... (Like we ever have those! :D)

I can't wait to see what the gown will look like in the end--very impressive so far!! :)

Love your Sarah Brightman icon, btw... I checked her Eden cd out of the library and have been listening to it quite a lot lately. ;)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: November 17th, 2004 06:02 am (UTC) (link)
Thanks much! :> I can’t wait either. Bring the stays along if you'd like. You never know, we might have some downtime to stitch together. :>

Glad you like the icon! I'm a bad influence aren't I? Funny, I got the video of her Eden concert out of the library... What is that about 'great minds'? *hee hee*
7 comments | comment?