May I start out by saying that I hate dealing with sleeves? I really do. *sigh* Today didn’t go too badly, it was just very tedious.
The first sleeve needed a lot of work, as I had anticipated. For once I had the placement in the armhole on target the first time so that was good. The back of the sleeve puffed out a lot for some reason and it took me three tries to get that wretched thing fixed.
I took the sleeve out, took the fabric in ½” at the puffy part and moved the back pleats up onto the shoulder a bit more. I also added elbow darts and took the front bodice in a bit more (at the strap seam).
The second toile looked pretty darn perfect in front. The bottom sleeve dart was a little snug but the three little elbow darts were perfect. The back was still puffy.
Mom had some very good suggestions this time around. The first was to take in the back strap seam in a bit, 3/8 on the sleeve side. I then used larger (¼”) pleats, changing the direction so that they faced the back. I again took the fabric in ½” at the puffy part.
The finial fitting looked pretty good. I’ve noticed that these type of sleeves tend to “puff” at that spot, I think it’s just part of the design. I’m afraid that if I take any more fullness out of the sleeves, they will be too restrictive or uncomfortable. So, even though I haven’t eliminated that darned puff completely, I have it to a size I can live with…
I've also decided I like the neckline afterall. I guess I’m ready transfer the pattern onto interfacing and cut out the real thing… now that’s an exciting thought!! :>