Jenny La Fleur
to like or not to like - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
jennylafleur
jennylafleur
to like or not to like

Thanks so much for all your hugs and encouragement on my lounging robe project. I really don't know what I would do without you guys! Many, many thinks to redthreaded for your insights and advice - I was really ready to give up on it entirely before your comment!


So I cut out yet another toile, this time going back to the original grain lines and not trying to make the center front end up on the salvage. I also perfected the deep box pleats in the back and added a smaller (1") box pleat to the side seam this time.


I tried the toile on both with and without the Chemise gown on underneath. As before I was super happy with the back, not so much with the side and front. It was much better though. I decided to not only add a bit of ease to the waistline of the side seam but also to ditch the box pleats and go with a "princess seam" there.

It doesn’t at all strike me as an 18th century solution to my fitting problem but it's the only way I can get it to work, thanks to my *ahem* natural bum roll. Looking at the robe from L’Anglaise et le Duc, it's actually the opposite of mine, princess seams in the back and a box pleat in the side seam. Interesting but I still question the period correctness.

So I think I've got this to a decent point. I've traced out a master pattern but I'm hesitating to actually make it up. I don't know I'm just not thrilled with it and I hate to use up my silk taffeta and my time on something I'm not thrilled with. So I'm letting it lie for a while and pondering whether I want to get over myself and continue on or more onto something I can feel a bit more that "eh" about.

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Comments
mlsdesigns From: mlsdesigns Date: January 20th, 2010 04:23 pm (UTC) (link)
I like the back! And I love the shape at the front where you have it turned back, it looks lovely!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:14 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks so much!
s0mmer From: s0mmer Date: January 20th, 2010 06:43 pm (UTC) (link)
I'm with you on not diving in before you're happy. The front of your muslin seems to cover more than the resource photos. The inspiration photo is great but such a different fabric. In silk over a Chemise dress it seems that less at center front is more. I do like when the robe underlines, rather than cutting across, the cleavage. (I'm a costume voyeur so take with 1T salt ;)

I'm sure you'll tweak and end up loving it, and will have another lovely gown!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:24 pm (UTC) (link)
Yeah, I was a little conservative on the front opening here, it's hard to know what that angle it should be without a full length mock-up. Although really it's pretty close to the Lady and the Duc version, which is the version I'm copying the closest (since it's in the same fabric as I am using)
s0mmer From: s0mmer Date: January 22nd, 2010 07:08 pm (UTC) (link)
I really like your fabric! Your version should show it off to best advantage :) Sorry if my comment seemed critical, my head wasn't working right that day :p I am always amazed how beautiful and well fitted your garments are!
sadievale From: sadievale Date: January 20th, 2010 06:50 pm (UTC) (link)
If the fit is partially coming from a stays issue, you could always make the later pair before doing the lounging robe ;)...and then the lounging robe, even before the fete maybe? that would be VERY ambitious, but you could do it, I know you could! or at least try ;)

It's not fun when you can't get something to come out like you want it to: and knowing you, you'll be happier once the toile is fitting properly...I do think it's looking lovely, especially the back, but I see what you mean about the front/sides: decisions, decisions!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:26 pm (UTC) (link)
I don't think the stays have anything to do with it, although I am considering trying to make a later pair just for the fun of it (for the fete). Looking at my commission schedule this month and next, probally not though. :>
tailordrews From: tailordrews Date: January 20th, 2010 08:14 pm (UTC) (link)
Its the same issue i am going to have when i am going to make the Chokolate girls dress. But i have thoaght about making a small dart in the front skirt each side of center front. I dont know if its called a dart, you know small triangle insertions set into a slit! This was a period solution.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:26 pm (UTC) (link)
Oh good to know - thanks!
love3angle From: love3angle Date: January 20th, 2010 08:27 pm (UTC) (link)
That's really coming along nicely now. What a nice style that is never done. :-)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:27 pm (UTC) (link)
Thank you so much!
anielmom From: anielmom Date: January 20th, 2010 11:05 pm (UTC) (link)
The back is fantastic, I do see what you mean about the sides. I think you're right to let it rest a bit. you won't be happy with the finished robe if you're not happy with the muslin.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:28 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks! Stopping is such a nice luxury. Yeah me for not starting this at the last minute!
redthreaded From: redthreaded Date: January 21st, 2010 06:08 pm (UTC) (link)
Yay! I'm so glad my suggestions were helpful! FPatterning and fitting is tricky, especially without a waist seam.

I think I agree with an earlier commenter...if you cut the front back *more* you might get a prettier line and see more of the underdress. Also, the further back you cut those side fronts, the less you will have to deal with the waist to hip resolve there (where you're getting that little bit of buckling).

And if you're not feeling it, take a break! This is supposed to be fun, so work on something you *want* to work on.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:43 pm (UTC) (link)
Yeah, the whole no waist seam thing is really throwing my off - I've never done it before!

Thanks again for your suggestions. I was a little conservative on the front opening here, it's hard to know what that angle it should be without a full length mock-up. Although really it's pretty close to the Lady and the Duc version, which is the version I'm copying the closest (since it's in the same fabric as I am using).

You are right about the more cut away the less fitting issues though... the three Le Brun portraits almost follow a "zone" front shape, I'm thinking I might switch to that. Time for another toile I guess!
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: January 22nd, 2010 03:46 am (UTC) (link)
Sorry its being such a pain but the back is looking great! I do agree with the other comments and maybe if you angled the front more it would help?
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: January 22nd, 2010 02:41 pm (UTC) (link)
Well I don't know how much it will really help but I think perhaps another toile is in order to find out. Blah!
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