I was feeling inspired to work on some 18th century last night so I started work on what will become my red silk robe à l'Anglaise.
I've been dying to cut into this fabric ever since bauhausfrau
picked it up for me in April. It's so-o-o-o-o pretty and different. Well except for the fact that both bauhausfrau
have some of it too! :>
I've decided I want go late 1770s, something fairly basic in construction and detailing that I can style into the 1780s depending on the occasion and my mood. (working with the theory that you can always wear an earlier dress with later accessories.) I've been inspired by many frocks in my files but the ones that have really stood out have been a yellow dress from Marie Antoinette, the polonaiseville dress from the Duchess and a yummy yellow frock from the Met.
I'm going to do an en fourreau because frankly it's easier and it pushs back the date a bit. :> Trimming I'm not too sure about. I have enough fabric to go reasonably crazy with self trim. The matching petticaot will have a full ruffle though and both pieces will have spangles - definitely needs sparkle!
So last night I started with the pattern from my pierrot jacket
, which is also the pattern I used for my blue print jacket
. I adore the fit of those jackets but I wanted to tweak the grainline (to shape the stripe in the front) and the shaping of the shoulders a bit (to try and achieve the same super pretty and comfortable sleeve I just got on my printed linen dress
So I played around with the pattern and cut out a toile. It's all sewn up and ready to be tried on.
In changing the angle of the front's grainline I used the c1780-90 dress in Arnold as my guide. I lined up the center front of my pattern piece with the center front of the book's pattern and traced. When I lined up the newly marked grainline on the fabric, sure enough it created that pretty V in front with my stripe - just like on the Duchess polonaiseville dress. I'm assuming that if the grainline worked for Arnold it will work for me but I'm still curious to see if the change with throw the fit off in some way. I hope not but this is why we toile before we cut our yummy fabric! :>