Jenny La Fleur
progress of a sort - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
progress of a sort

My Memorial weekend was fun. I did a huge amount of nothing, which after reading my FL makes me feel like a bit of a slacker but I really enjoyed it! Well except for the day long migraine on Monday. That kinda sucked. Stupid weather.

I did start work on the Charles II dress, although I didn't get very far with it, thanks in large part to the headache thing. My plan has been to drape a pattern based on the scaled patterns from Jean Hunnisett. So I scanned the page, enlarged it in MS Pubisher, printed it out (pink paper ohh!), taped the pices together and traced out the pattern on a length of old sheet.

Alas all that work and my useal method of draped pattern greatness wouldn't work. Not even close to working. Seriously, how the heck is one supposed to drape a pattern *for oneself* for an off the shoulder garment?!! *razen frazen*

Narcissa has been absolutely no help (we don't see eye-to-eye on shoulders at the best of times) so in desperation (and a stubborn determination not to spend $30 on the Reconstructing History pattern) I scoured the pattern bins for any and all off the shoulder patterns. My thought is that if I can get a little assitance with the patterning and fit of the shoulder area right I can redraft seams and make up the rest easily. I came up with a few options, the best of which is probably the Civil War ballgown.

Then I was talking to Mom and she suggested trying on her old ballgown bodice and use that as a working toile. My Mom is so smart! So I braved the storage under the stairs (not for the faint of heart!) and found the bodice. Now I just need to dig around in the historic pattern bin and make sure she still has the pattern for that bodice. Mom is very spotty about documenting her costuming so hopefully I can figure out what pattern she used and find it in the stash. If not I’ll start toiling with one of the patterns I’ve already pulled out.

If I can shake these headaches that is. *sigh*


10 comments | comment?
unclrashid From: unclrashid Date: May 27th, 2009 05:41 am (UTC) (link)
I haven't tried this technique yet, but I have seen a couple of German ren gowns it seemed to work on. Their perpetrators told me they just took a regular pattern with normal shoulders and sleeves, made muslin mockups and drew in the new necklines, right over the sleeve seams.

I suspect they may have had to pin a dart in the "sleeve" to tighten it up when they got to the next fitting, but they said it worked well for them.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: May 27th, 2009 02:44 pm (UTC) (link)
Umm. I did something similar with my Poe dress and frankly was not happy with the fit. It's extremely difficult to draw on one’s own arm without moving the shoulder area and throwing off the fit. The only reason my bertha worked was because A draped it directly on me while I stood still. Not an option for this project unfortunately...
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: May 27th, 2009 10:04 pm (UTC) (link)
You know, you could just hop on up here and I will fit the shoulders for you. ;P
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: May 28th, 2009 12:54 pm (UTC) (link)
Don't tempt me like that! :P
tailordrews From: tailordrews Date: May 27th, 2009 03:04 pm (UTC) (link)
I would use the hunniset pattern if i were you. And the issue with the off the shoulder tabs isnt that difficult. Why dont you just cut the shoulder straps wide and fasten them with pins in the back bodice, and then have some one to help you stretch them off your shoulder and pin in position in the front bodice?
Then you have the right shape, and you can pad the dress form so that it fits.

Oh and by the way, remember to make an extra tab sitting under the bocice in the slit where the front busk part meets the first tab on the outside bodice. This is brilliant, because there will always be a small gap when you push the skirt in possition from the deep busk over the hip pads.

jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: May 27th, 2009 09:26 pm (UTC) (link)
Umm... maybe I will give that a shot.
fancyfrocks From: fancyfrocks Date: May 27th, 2009 04:47 pm (UTC) (link)
Your mom is a genius!
Ugh, my first custom gown was an off the shoulder wedding gown and it was not fun.
And I *heart* your fun pink paper. Do you scan it in, scale it on computer, and print out? I think I need to learn whatever method you used!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: May 28th, 2009 12:58 pm (UTC) (link)
Yes she is - I'm very spoiled to have her around! :>

Yep that is exactly what I do. I scan it in, enlarge it in Publisher (you can use any graphics program with rulers) then print it out. Then all I have to do is tape the papers together and carry on from there. Fast, easy and no math! :>
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: May 27th, 2009 10:07 pm (UTC) (link)
I hope the headaches hold off for a while so you can get some work done!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: May 28th, 2009 01:00 pm (UTC) (link)
That would be nice... no luck so far though! I woke up with the same headache this am (day four - yay!), although yesterday wasn't too bad. I was able to get some work done, which was good.
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