Jenny La Fleur
skirts for a queen - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
skirts for a queen

Taxes are done - yay! So the race for the CC27 finish begins. Here is the bodice for Queen of the Night. I was just checking the fit and it looks good to me! The sleeve is from my striped jacket, I simply enlarged it a tiny bit since it didn't have ANY ease in it last time. Pretty but not all that comfy for long periods of time. This version has a funky puffiness at the back but if I take that out I won't be able to move, so puffiness it is. :P

Last night I started work on the pannier skirt. I mocked up the skirt last summer but was never really happy with the results. Thanks to koshka_the_cat I figured out the correct pleating method but I found my pleated section puffed out in a very annoying way.

So this time I decided to drape the skirt in my velveteen, so I'd know exactly how the fabric would behave. When I pleated it the period way, I got the same puffiness in the side skirt. Looking through my files of extant garments I noticed they have the same puffiness in the same place but in taffeta and satin it's not as obvious. Moo.

So I tried something new, using the same sort of pleats but bringing them all the way to the waist. No puffiness. It also used less fabric, important since I'm using limited yardage from the stash. After some pondering I decided that since this costume is all fantasy anyway I would throw historical accuracy out the window and go with option #2. It's prettier that way, do I really need another reason? I think not. :>

I measured out how much yardage I would need (my waist to floor measurements x number of panels required) and I had exactly the right amount of fabric, like down to a ¼". *happy butt wiggle* It doesn't get any better than that!

I didn't feel like standing up and draping anymore so I turned my attention to the bodice. I pinned in the second sleeve, finished off all the seams on the inside with whip stitching and sewed on all the hooks.

To be honest I'm a little scared at how well this project is going - it's too good to be true!


16 comments | comment?
quincy134 From: quincy134 Date: April 14th, 2009 01:41 pm (UTC) (link)
Wow, that is awesome progress! Looks great!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:19 pm (UTC) (link)
fancyfrocks From: fancyfrocks Date: April 14th, 2009 01:45 pm (UTC) (link)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:19 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks! I can't wait to see it all finished!
padawansguide From: padawansguide Date: April 14th, 2009 01:48 pm (UTC) (link)
Option two just looks like how you do the side pleats on the francaise. You can see what I mean in this pic of Kendra's gown:

Seems like the sacques can have either type of pleat depending on the size of the panniers - if they are huge, they have the first type of pleat and smaller ones just have the pleats pulled right up into the waistline like you have it.

So I think what you did is just fine from an accuracy standpoint. I have no idea if the underpetticoat is every pleated in that way, but certainly the overskirt could be!

jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:21 pm (UTC) (link)
Oh you are right! Maybe that is why it didn't strike me as a terrible thing when I was contemplating it. :>
elegant_musings From: elegant_musings Date: April 14th, 2009 05:03 pm (UTC) (link)
It's looking stunning! I love the genius way you got the pleating to lay just so--I think it looks a bit more elegant with the heavy fabric. ;)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:22 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks - exactly my thought. Yay for fantasy projects when you can do whatever you want! :>

*sigh* I love that icon!
koshka_the_cat From: koshka_the_cat Date: April 15th, 2009 01:19 am (UTC) (link)

I'm glad it's working--we all deserve a project like that every so often!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:23 pm (UTC) (link)
Makes for a nice change anyway! :>
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: April 15th, 2009 01:54 am (UTC) (link)
Its really looking great Jenny-Rose! I was having that same puffy pleat problem with my francaise, but you really made it work.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:25 pm (UTC) (link)
Yay, I'm not the only one! :P I suspect it's one of those 18th century things (like puffiness in the back of a sleeve) that is just that way and it's our modern sensibilities about it that are wrong.
suededsilk From: suededsilk Date: April 15th, 2009 04:19 am (UTC) (link)
Looks beautiful! So nice that it's an "easy" one, too. :)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:25 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks! It's been a while since things have gone this smooth on a frock...
love3angle From: love3angle Date: April 15th, 2009 06:23 am (UTC) (link)
You KNOW you have to sing the 3rd act aria if you're gonna wear this dress!

Just sayin'
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 15th, 2009 12:28 pm (UTC) (link)
Well I suppose I could but really it won't be pretty. Alas I never have had voice training and so can't reach such hieghts. I could hum it though! Or better yet you should follow me around and sing it for me! :P
16 comments | comment?