Jenny La Fleur
regency linings are the devil - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
regency linings are the devil

I'm really hating the lining for the cross-over Regency dress. I've cut it down a bit since i took the above pic but still. It's just a pain and I feel like it shifts and moves every time I try on the toile, which means it will shift and move every time I pull the dress on. I'm thinking quite seriously about leaving it off and just making a bodiced petticoat for underneath. It kind of depends on how thin my fabric is I guess. Do you think I'll regret making the dress without it?

I tried on the toile this morning and just finished tracing out a master pattern. Next step is to cut the thing out. I could have fiddled with the toile a little more I guess but I'm just not in the mood. It looks good enough. My headache du jour is at bay at the moment but it's put me quite out of the mood to do drapings and fittings. Luckily my CC projects are almost out of the toile stage and the embellishment I have to do is better suited to my available brain wattage.

Just plain progress doesn't seem to be doing it for me - I will feel so much better if I can just finish something though. Something, anything crossed off my list! :>


3 comments | comment?
jehanni From: jehanni Date: July 17th, 2008 06:04 pm (UTC) (link)
It does depend on how thin your dress fabric is. Another possible solution you might consider is quilting the lining to the dress fabric as a design detail. I know Chanel jackets are constructed this way--totally different fabrics and effects, of course, as with the Chanel, it's done to stabilize loosely-woven, chunky boucle wools with an underlayer of silk, so the stitches are generally lost in the thick fabric, and invisible to the observing eye. Depending on whether there are gathers in your dress fabric, you might be able to put tiny little running stitches into your bodice more or less invisibly.
gilded_garb From: gilded_garb Date: July 17th, 2008 06:38 pm (UTC) (link)
It's like this CC is costume cursed or something! I had the exact same lining issues with my Gala bodice and finally just flat lined it. I made it back closing too, which I'm now sort of regretting.

I just want to finish something too! The only completely wearable things I have are underpinnings so I'm starting to freak out!
dawnluck From: dawnluck Date: July 18th, 2008 02:34 pm (UTC) (link)
Two things:

The cross-over inside lining is really helpful in making the dress fit you snugly and although I'd never put this lining in the drawstring dress again (I did the first time I made this pattern as the instructions told me to and I just did it! ) I really like that inner flap to pin snugly shut in bib front gowns and surplice bodice styles.

I DO add a bust dart to the lining piece. I know it’s not in the pattern but darts can be found in extent garments and it really helps this piece fit better. Jennie has drafted her lining piece to be quite wide and when you get the dart in there it snugs up the lower portion of that lining flap and it actually gives a tiny bit of lift when the linings are tightly pinned shut.

Okay, maybe three things… I’ve found that I really, really need to play with the pleats on the cross-over bodice in this pattern. I’m not sure I’ve found the perfect solution yet and I’ve made it 3 times now. It’s really important to get this to fit almost perfectly otherwise those pleats create a blousy, balloony effect that is just not what I’m looking for.
3 comments | comment?