For the first toile I decided to cut out and make up the pattern as-is and per the instructions, just to see what the results would be. Official Jenny-Rose opinion? Not too bad.
1- The bodice was a little low. Apparently in my 1804 corset my normally "C" bust is an "A". Riiiggghhhttt. Strange but true, when I compared the corrected markings on my toile and the "A" cup pattern it was exactly the same measurement. Granted I want a rather high waist and I'm on the small end of "C" but still I thought that was amusing.
2- I didn't dig the pleats. I knew I wouldn't - I'm just not a big pleat gal and these were big pleats. I also had some issues with the cross-over bodice not matching the lining. Perhaps there is suppose to be bunching at the side but I smoothed it out (flat on my cutting mat) and trimmed off the access.
3- Other fitting issue was at the back shoulder seams. The angle was way off on me... pretty typical issue for 18th and 19th angled shoulder seams though. I simply had Mom pin it at the seam for me and drafted it out.
After the initial fitting I decided to take it apart and fit the lining alone. That is where I figured out the cup size thing and marked the shoulder seam. The lining is pretty interesting. I thought these sorts of cross-over-and-pin linings were more typical of bib-fronts but were apparently used on all sorts of bodice styles. I noticed a few more in Bradfield's Costume in Detail, when I was actually looking for them (never ceases to amaze what you can find hiding in that book). Anyway should come in handy for *ahem* future projects.
After fitting the lining I took the toile apart again, made my changes and proceeded to put it back together, this time with the cross-over pieces again in the mix. I opted to do gathers instead of the pleats the second time around. I first pinned the lining and cross-over matching the side and armhole. I then pulled up the top gathers to fit before pulling the bottom gathers. The bottom was a little trickier, mostly because I ended up cutting so much off to match my new waistline.
The results. I'm very, very pleased. I need to tweak the front cross-over a bit - changing the angle at the very front and making the gathering threads longer in the. I really like it - just what I wanted to achieve and without the hassle I was dreading with drafting from scratch. I started work on the sleeve tonight but it started to be fiddly and I decided it was too late to be dealing with fiddly sleeves.
Tags: z:archive:19th:regency:cross-over, z:pending:19th:regency:wm