Jenny La Fleur
toiles of the cross-over bodice - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
toiles of the cross-over bodice

For the first toile I decided to cut out and make up the pattern as-is and per the instructions, just to see what the results would be. Official Jenny-Rose opinion? Not too bad.

1- The bodice was a little low. Apparently in my 1804 corset my normally "C" bust is an "A". Riiiggghhhttt. Strange but true, when I compared the corrected markings on my toile and the "A" cup pattern it was exactly the same measurement. Granted I want a rather high waist and I'm on the small end of "C" but still I thought that was amusing.

2- I didn't dig the pleats. I knew I wouldn't - I'm just not a big pleat gal and these were big pleats. I also had some issues with the cross-over bodice not matching the lining. Perhaps there is suppose to be bunching at the side but I smoothed it out (flat on my cutting mat) and trimmed off the access.

3- Other fitting issue was at the back shoulder seams. The angle was way off on me... pretty typical issue for 18th and 19th angled shoulder seams though. I simply had Mom pin it at the seam for me and drafted it out.

After the initial fitting I decided to take it apart and fit the lining alone. That is where I figured out the cup size thing and marked the shoulder seam. The lining is pretty interesting. I thought these sorts of cross-over-and-pin linings were more typical of bib-fronts but were apparently used on all sorts of bodice styles. I noticed a few more in Bradfield's Costume in Detail, when I was actually looking for them (never ceases to amaze what you can find hiding in that book). Anyway should come in handy for *ahem* future projects.

After fitting the lining I took the toile apart again, made my changes and proceeded to put it back together, this time with the cross-over pieces again in the mix. I opted to do gathers instead of the pleats the second time around. I first pinned the lining and cross-over matching the side and armhole. I then pulled up the top gathers to fit before pulling the bottom gathers. The bottom was a little trickier, mostly because I ended up cutting so much off to match my new waistline.

The results. I'm very, very pleased. I need to tweak the front cross-over a bit - changing the angle at the very front and making the gathering threads longer in the. I really like it - just what I wanted to achieve and without the hassle I was dreading with drafting from scratch. I started work on the sleeve tonight but it started to be fiddly and I decided it was too late to be dealing with fiddly sleeves.

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11 comments | comment?
gilded_garb From: gilded_garb Date: August 27th, 2007 04:52 am (UTC) (link)
Oooh! I love it in the purple, of course :o) The second toile is definitely superior. It's going to be such a pretty dress!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: August 27th, 2007 05:14 pm (UTC) (link)
*hee hee* I'm so glad you like it!
koshka_the_cat From: koshka_the_cat Date: August 27th, 2007 05:19 am (UTC) (link)
It's looking wonderful! And so quick!

Keep it secret for at least a while longer. I know I'm going to be making the same decision when I get a little more done on my dress. Secrets are hard :)
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: August 27th, 2007 09:03 pm (UTC) (link)
Amazing when a pattern actually works, isn't it? At least I'm not the only one, helps with the guilt. :>
joysdaughter From: joysdaughter Date: August 27th, 2007 08:49 am (UTC) (link)
Did you ever see this?

You might find it interesting, though probably not helpful!!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: August 28th, 2007 02:35 am (UTC) (link)
No - how did I miss that? Thanks for the link, actually it was helpful in the suggestion of sheeting for the lining, piping at the back seams and the yardage estimate. Cool! Lovely gown by the way - you did a wonderful job. :>
joysdaughter From: joysdaughter Date: August 28th, 2007 06:48 am (UTC) (link)
Thank you - she was happy anyway. I cursed quite a lot while making it, I must say!
girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: August 27th, 2007 01:35 pm (UTC) (link)
Lovely! The gathers really do look so much better than the pleats. Its looking great!
And you know, this post will be very helpful in the future. I've been dying to make the dress in my icon for years. I dont know when I will get around to it, but when I do, I will know where to look for advice!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: August 28th, 2007 02:39 am (UTC) (link)
I'm glad you like the gathers too, I'm much happier with it now. This is a good base pattern for the cross-over, although you'd have to cut down and fiddle with the neckline quite a bit for your gown (or any evening gown for that matter, the high neck looks silly as evening wear IMHO). Luckily I wanted the higher day neckline.

All this will be on my site too, eventually, for your reference. Whenever I decided to make this public. :>
cracked_code From: cracked_code Date: August 27th, 2007 11:18 pm (UTC) (link)
Pitty Pitty Pitty Diss!

You can add one of these to my list of gowns you will make me someday (when I can afford you). P
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: August 28th, 2007 02:43 am (UTC) (link)
I'm glad you like it. The pattern is all sizes included so it's a possibility... sans appliqué trim. I'm only crazy enough to do that once I think. :P
11 comments | comment?