Jenny La Fleur
1860 query - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
jennylafleur
jennylafleur
1860 query
Calling all 1860s costuming peeps - I have a query!

A friend of mine has an 1860s dress with a dog leg closure. The hooks don't want to stay hooked and she was asking if there is a better way to keep it fastened. Since this isn't my area of expertise I thought I ask you ‘all.

Right now the dress has hooks and bars along the dog-leg fastening, should it have hooks and eyes instead (even though they are bulkier)? Also the waist is a little big, could it be just a fitting problem (ie the style needs more tension to work correctly)? I'm seeing a lot of snaps in similar places on Edwardian dresses but I can't find a date of when they were invented - I assume it's later than the 1860s or is it?

Thanks so much for your help!

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17 comments | comment?
Comments
dawnluck From: dawnluck Date: October 19th, 2011 03:10 pm (UTC) (link)
Are they metal bars or thread bars? I find I can get a snugger (is that a word?) fit with thread bars. They also can be easily replaced when the start to loosen.
twilatee From: twilatee Date: October 19th, 2011 03:15 pm (UTC) (link)
This is what I was going to add... thread bars.... not only do you get a custom fit so that the hook isn't sliding around, the metal hook has more friction on the thread so it's harder to open.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:47 am (UTC) (link)
Oh I hadn’t thought of that - thanks!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:46 am (UTC) (link)
Oh I hadn’t thought of that - thanks!
joysdaughter From: joysdaughter Date: October 19th, 2011 03:36 pm (UTC) (link)
I think you are possibly right about the tension at the waist too - a frim fit tends to stay closed better.
nuranar From: nuranar Date: October 19th, 2011 04:50 pm (UTC) (link)
Ditto this. The front of the waist is ideal for sagging and gapping if there's not enough tension. A wee bit of negative ease looks worlds better.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:48 am (UTC) (link)
Yeah, tension is a wonderful thing! I did a fitting on her on Monday that I think this is really the issue - thanks so much for your impute!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:47 am (UTC) (link)
Yeah, I did a fitting with her on Monday that I think this is really the issue - thanks so much for your impute!
redthreaded From: redthreaded Date: October 19th, 2011 05:03 pm (UTC) (link)
Skirt hooks and bars usually need some pretty decent tension to keep them closed. Wire hooks and bars are going to stay closed better.

jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:48 am (UTC) (link)
Thanks so much for your impute - I really appreciate it!
reine_de_coudre From: reine_de_coudre Date: October 19th, 2011 05:23 pm (UTC) (link)
i agree on the possibility of a tension issue. also, if i remember correctly, metal bars weren't available during the 1860s, so thread bars would be best. you can make the thread bars short enough so that they are held by the hook very tightly.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:49 am (UTC) (link)
Good to know! Thanks so much for your impute - I really appreciate it!
mlsdesigns From: mlsdesigns Date: October 19th, 2011 07:36 pm (UTC) (link)
I think it's probably a tension thing too, not enough, and the hooks can be such a pain!! Instead, I use buttons on my dog-leg closures, putting the button on the inside of the bodice waist, and the holes on the waistband of the dog-leg. I'm not sure where I got the idea from though, so you may not want to trust me ;)
Did you get my email by the way? I've been having dreadful trouble with it at the moment :(
koshka_the_cat From: koshka_the_cat Date: October 19th, 2011 10:51 pm (UTC) (link)
Another vote for tension!

I also pin them when they feel like misbehaving. A well placed straight pin is the best thing ever for mildly misbehaving costumes...
quincy134 From: quincy134 Date: October 19th, 2011 11:42 pm (UTC) (link)
I'm with Katherine--I always stick pins in closures when they're being troublesome.

Another thing I found when I tried a dog-leg on an 1860s--I attached the skirt to a piece of twill tape and then attached the twill tape to the bodice (there wasn't a self-fabric waistband in this case, just a piped lower edge to the bodice). The hooks and bars attach to the twill tape waistband, and that is hooked to itself. I was able to get a tighter fit with the twill tape waistband than with a closure that was actually directly on the bodice.
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:50 am (UTC) (link)
Thanks so much!
jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: October 27th, 2011 01:49 am (UTC) (link)
Pins are a lovely thing! Thanks!
17 comments | comment?