Jenny La Fleur
Victorian fitting fail - Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
jennylafleur
jennylafleur
Victorian fitting fail

The Victorian polonaise is not playing nice. *gives piles of mock-ups the evil eye* It's really my fault, I'm just not used to fitting a Victorian shape and I don't know the construction of the period well enough to make good guesses of how to get the results I want and still make it period correct (like I can with the 18th century). But I'm blaming the Polonaise anyway 'cause it shouldn't always be about me right?

I really don't have time for this. If I can't get it sorted out today I'm going to have to ditch my design and drastically change what I'm doing. It would be pretty easy if I went really early 1870s, made the front skirt separate (covered with a belt and peplum) and made the neckline square. That would get rid of all my difficult areas. But I'm feeling stubborn about making the TV pattern work for me. I'm not sure why...

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9 comments
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victoriasews From: victoriasews Date: April 23rd, 2011 02:26 pm (UTC) (link)
I know the TV bulletin board has a section that you can post pics and stuff to get help with fitting issues - Heather is usually really good at answering quickly, though with it being Easter weekend, she might not be as quick as usual.

Best of luck though!!
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jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 23rd, 2011 06:40 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks!
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sewaddicted From: sewaddicted Date: April 23rd, 2011 03:04 pm (UTC) (link)
Wow, I got this pattern to fit fairly quickly ... probably through ignorant beginners luck!

Did you pick the front & back pattern sizes based on the instructions? Thanks to my Vast Acreage i found no way to avoid some form of horizontal dart so I placed it at bust point level. Thanks to my print it's not obvious, and drew a square neckline onto my mockup.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v440/KiwiW/2010%20Events/2010-0427%20Ironfest/?action=view¤t=IMG_3333LadyPSewaddictedMisskikkika.jpg

If it's too loose in the waist I found I could deepening the darts significantly, and I would have added a 3rd one if needed. I had to raise the shoulder about 3/4" - something I have to do in modern clothes too

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jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 23rd, 2011 06:40 pm (UTC) (link)
Yeah that is one of the problems I'm trying to solve, fitting a decent sized bust without a horizontal dart. I’m not having good luck so far but has to be possible... I'm not seeing any extant examples with horizontal darts at the bust, along the waist yes but not the bust.

I'm also trying to change the neckline and shorten the darts. Every time I get on of those things looking good I'm at square one with another. It's been a vicious cycle... *sigh*
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sewaddicted From: sewaddicted Date: April 24th, 2011 01:14 am (UTC) (link)
I actually had to grade the front piece out a couple of sizes from the largest due to my Vast Acreage and I wasn't convinced that it would be an effective method. My thoughts were probably "how on earth is this going to work".

My horizontal dart is between the bust points, as my main issue was a gaping neckline. I'm sure I've seen it on something period, which is why I thought of it. I could have eased the neckline onto a stay tape but that seemed like a lot of work & would be easier in wool than cotton, and easier in a V or U neckline than in a square.

Wishing you fortuna in getting it to work without much more angst
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pinkdiamond From: pinkdiamond Date: April 23rd, 2011 03:22 pm (UTC) (link)
Do I see a straight centre front there? The CF seam on this period is all curvy and wonky looking for a reason and modern patterns never feature it (basically because you can't pattern it as it is a consequence of fitting).

Leave the sides as they are and unpin the shoulders- if you look at Patterns of Fashion and extant (stripy) garments you'll see just how differently they are shaped through there. If you follow a stripe from side bust it winds up mid shoulder or even higher. Another feature modern patterns don't have. You fit from sides up through the shoulder and sides through to centre pinching out the excess fabric-- quite the opposite of modern fitting where we smooth from Cf to sides.
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jennylafleur From: jennylafleur Date: April 23rd, 2011 06:34 pm (UTC) (link)
Thanks so much for this - very helpful! This makes a lot of sense with what I'm seeing in Arnold and Waugh. Now I just have to figure out how to make it work on my body...
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girliegirl32786 From: girliegirl32786 Date: April 23rd, 2011 07:11 pm (UTC) (link)
Exactly! My center front seams are always curved. Its the only way I can get a good fit through the bust.

Good luck!
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chloeandrudy From: chloeandrudy Date: April 24th, 2011 02:02 am (UTC) (link)
If this is the TV polonaise, I've made it a few times and looking at yours, at least from this angle, the front darts look too far to the side. They should be more in front.
And I agree with the others, the CFs on mine crossover closer at top, narrower at the bust, and perfectly centered below the bust line. So your front closure will adjust for better fitting. This is a great pattern, and very flattering to your sillouette.
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9 comments