Jenny La Fleur
Jenny La Fleur
adventures in costuming
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My visit to Under the Redcoat was short but very sweet! I arrived in Williamsburg at 5pm on Sunday and called [info]koshka_the_cat. She, [info]past_blue & [info]sadievale had retired from a fun day in the historic area and were in relaxation mode back at the hotel. After a very funny keystone-cop-with-cell-phones episode, Katherine found me and led me to her room. I unloaded my car and we settled down for the all important costumer's chat.

We talked about sewing and current projects, I saw the plans for her Gala dress and she helped me brain storm about the issues I'm having with my Charles bodice. It was a lovely - I had such fun!

After a little while [info]past_blue & [info]sadievale joined us and we made reservations for dinner at the King's Arms Tavern (my favorite - whoo hoo!). I got dressed in my costume and we shuttled over to the historic area.

Our candlelit dinner was lovely (despite all the annoying interruptions of 1st person interpreters & waiters with history lessons - when did they start doing that?). My game pie was yummy and the company fantastic. After stopping to chat with a family interesting in our frocks, we walked back to the hotel and stripped down to our stays for a mini cake party. [info]past_blue popped open a bottle of Frances Coppola "Sofia" champagne, I broke out the tavern glasses I'd brought and we feasted on mini cupcakes. All while listening to the MA soundtrack on Victoria's I-phone of course. We are such dorks!

The champagne made Victoria & Stephanie sleepy so they retired to their room and after showers Katherine and I stayed up talking for another couple of hours.

Despite the busy day and the champagne I was up early Monday morning. Which was fine since Katherine is a heavy sleeper and I take longer to wake up and get dressed. Once Katherine was up we finished getting dressed and packed, all while chatting a mile a minute of course.

Victoria & [info]sadievale joined us, Katherine gave her luggage to the hotel to watch and we loaded the rest in my car (Victoria & Stephanie were catching a ride home with me). A walk down to Market Square for breakfast and the quickest costumer meeting ever with [info]sarahnucci - but hey we did meet! Then came the shopping for Katherine's keychain, Bridget's playing cards and Victoria's brooch and it was time to say goodbye. Katherine headed for the Capitol and some last minute touristing and we walked back to the hotel, hopped in the car and headed home.

So a really lovely time! All my pics can be found here:
Under the Redcoat 2009

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*waves* Just checking in to say, yes I am still alive. In fact I'm lurking on LJ, admiring your new frocks & resolutions to not go mad making new things for CosCol. I'm just not commenting much.

Another thing I'm not really doing is costuming. I worked a bit more on the Charles dress then got frustrated and so moved on to the Pimpernel, then got frustrated and moved on to some modern skirts then got bored... My self diagnosis is that I am suffering from rampant CADD.

Like I mentioned on [info]girliegirl32786's LJ, while a part of me is relieved that I don't have CosCol deadlines to contend with, the rest of me is wallowing in the sea of possibilities and half finished projects in the aftermath of CosCon. For some reason it's overwhelming and I'm finding inspiration hard to find.

Dear costuming fu - where are you?

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This Charles Dress is turning out to be a very laborious process. I seem to spend more of my sewing time in front of the computer going through my costume files and trolling the internet for answers to my design/fitting questions. It seems counter-productive but it's not; I am figuring it out slowly but surely.

I realized the other day that this project is so hard in part because this is a totally new era/style for me. It's been so long since I ventured into completely uncharted territory like this, having been happily playing in the 18th century/Regency sandbox for a while now, that I've forgotten what it's like to start from stratch! So I've been going back to some of my "milestone" dress diaries, like my first 18th century gown, my Rohan dress and yep it was the same then. Lots of research, lots of toiles. Very long entries.

*sigh* I'm sure it will make me a better costumer in the long run but dude - I miss my already beautifully fitted and tweaked master patterns! *pouts*

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So like I said before, I've been working on this frock in little pieces of time. So I'm here, there and everywhere with my journaling. Sorry about that. But since I think having a detailed diary will come in handy someday, I'm just going to write it as it happened. cut for those that don't care about details )

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Before I post proper diary progress for my Charles II dress, I thought I would post pics of my vision for it. This is one of those interesting projects where the designing and creating process has been a very organic. I've a solid ideas for what I'm going to do with certain parts and no clue for other parts and all of it is changing as I go along. It's a fun way to costume but it wreaks havoc on the old dress diary format. Oh well.


So the fabrics. For the dress. I'm using an orange poly faille. You may recognize it from my Fire dress. I have a limited amount of fabric left but it should work. I just won't have a decadently full skirt. The lace came from an Edwardian skirt that was otherwise disintegrating and the metallic lace from Tinsel Trading in NYC. I'll use one of the gold tone silk ribbons, not sure which yet, for hair and jewelry. Not pictured is the cream china silk for the faux shift sleeves.


My silly little sketch, freshly made last night. I'm not 100% sure what I'm doing with the sleeves (I won't know until I start toiling I think) but it gives a rough idea of what I'm going for. For the bodice I'm relying heavy on the pics of the 1660s bodice in Bath plus the patterns in Hunnisett, Waugh and Arnold. My pattern is turning out to be quite the mis-mosh of sources, pattern shapes and ideas but it's mine and I like it. :>

I’m still debating the separate stays or boned bodice question. Either one is going to be a pain I think. Either way I’m going to bone it with Silly Sister reed (seems like a good project for experimenting!). The 17th century shift will be faux, but I am going to make up an off the shoulder mid-victorian – I need it for my Poe dress anyway.

Next up the nitty gritty diary...

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I've come to the conclusion that this Charles dress is either going to kill me off or it's going to be one of the most amazing things I've ever made. I'm going for the later but this frock is fighting my every inch of the way.

Why is that? Why is it, as [info]myladyswardrobe so eloquently put it, that some gowns practically make themselves, whereas others simply don't want to be made? I haven't figured out a rhyme or reason to it but it is some small consolation that I'm not the only sufferer and that makes me feel a tiny bit better.

So after pondering why this particular frock doesn't want to be friendly (no conclusion), I made a momentous decision... *drum roll* ... to just enjoy the process. Novel thought - that!

I'm not in a race, I'm not going to Costume College, I don't have a deadline so why all this scrambling?

Somehow I've gotten into the horrible rut of costuming in a rush. I've been so focused on events, "using up" the stash, holding off CADD, feeling guilty work on my stuff when I have commission work to do or just plain finishing projects that I've lost the joy of doing. Which is silly because honestly my favorite part isn't the dressing up (the fun of that is all about the friends who dress up with me!), it's the creating. So why am I raising such a fuss about this bodice not wanting to play nice and trying to figure out the shortest possible route to the end?

Costuming In A Rush (TM)

Sometimes I wonder at my absurd ability to complicate the simple and to create my own drama. *sigh*

All that to say I've been working on my Charles dress in little spurts of time, as work and headaches/brain wattage will allow this week. The frock is still playing dirty but my change in perspective has me enjoying the challenge a bit more. Hey I’m actually getting work done on it too!

Well I guess that is enough of a break from the toileing... back to work so I'll post pics next time!

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Is it just me or are some of the embroidery motifs on this dress of Pauline Bonaparte really similar to the embroidery motifs on the pearl dress of Princess Charlotte?

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_ekAm4Aquyj8/SeUofLxnlqI/AAAAAAAAFgs/9Frp_JhG7Ww/s1600-h/pauline1.jpg

http://www.jennylafleur.com/diary/em07/charlotte1817_01.jpg

Seriously, how much fun is that?!

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My Memorial weekend was fun. I did a huge amount of nothing, which after reading my FL makes me feel like a bit of a slacker but I really enjoyed it! Well except for the day long migraine on Monday. That kinda sucked. Stupid weather.


I did start work on the Charles II dress, although I didn't get very far with it, thanks in large part to the headache thing. My plan has been to drape a pattern based on the scaled patterns from Jean Hunnisett. So I scanned the page, enlarged it in MS Pubisher, printed it out (pink paper ohh!), taped the pices together and traced out the pattern on a length of old sheet.

Alas all that work and my useal method of draped pattern greatness wouldn't work. Not even close to working. Seriously, how the heck is one supposed to drape a pattern *for oneself* for an off the shoulder garment?!! *razen frazen*


Narcissa has been absolutely no help (we don't see eye-to-eye on shoulders at the best of times) so in desperation (and a stubborn determination not to spend $30 on the Reconstructing History pattern) I scoured the pattern bins for any and all off the shoulder patterns. My thought is that if I can get a little assitance with the patterning and fit of the shoulder area right I can redraft seams and make up the rest easily. I came up with a few options, the best of which is probably the Civil War ballgown.


Then I was talking to Mom and she suggested trying on her old ballgown bodice and use that as a working toile. My Mom is so smart! So I braved the storage under the stairs (not for the faint of heart!) and found the bodice. Now I just need to dig around in the historic pattern bin and make sure she still has the pattern for that bodice. Mom is very spotty about documenting her costuming so hopefully I can figure out what pattern she used and find it in the stash. If not I’ll start toiling with one of the patterns I’ve already pulled out.

If I can shake these headaches that is. *sigh*

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I am quite tantalizing close to finishing the binding on my blue 18th century stays, only about two inches to go. I've been working on them off and on (as the wrists allow) for a week now and I'm SO ready for them to be done! They do look good though. For once in my life I don't have a deadline to finish them by (having worn them to CosCon sans binding) so I decided to revel in tiny stitches and take my time. Part of me is regretting that decision as I'm totally over working on the project but the other part sees my fine needlework and *squees* inside.

I do have progress pics but have mis-laid the USB cord so I can't get them off my camera. Moo.

So what is on the agenda in the coming months? Sadly I am not going to make it to Costume College this year, *weeps*, so after CosCon I've been feeling a little rudderless in the sea of costuming possibilities. I have lots of half-finished projects laying around that need attention but honestly most of them I don't care a fig about at the moment. Since I don't really have costume deadlines and events until the fall I've decided to work on only what I feel a burning desire to work on this summer. Should be fun really.

Top of the agenda are the Charles II dress, new Regency stays (mine "broke" at CosCon) and finishing the Pimpernel revamp. That list should keep me busy if not completely out of trouble for a little while anyway... :P

Oh yes and my other project this week has been updating my website (as the wrists allow). All the diaries and event albums should be updated now. Man was I behind!

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I promised [info]unclrashid my receipt for mock Devonshire cream so here it is:

*************************************
Mock Devonshire Cream

16oz cream cheese, softened
4 tbsp confectioner’s sugar
1 cup sour cream

In a bowl, beat together cream cheese and sugar.
Add sour cream and mix until thoroughly combined.

Yield: 1½ cups
from the book "If Tea Cups Could Talk" by Emilie Barnes
*************************************

Not quite as good as the real thing (nothing is!) but a quick, easy and very tasty substitute for those of us that can't get our hands on proper unpasteurized milk!

edited to add:
I was just trolling the web and found another recipe for Mock Devonshire Cream consisting of mascarpone, whipping cream, sugar and vanilla extract. I don't think the mascarpone (which is expensive) and the whipping cream would be amazing better than my faithful cream cheese and sour cream but I like the idea of adding some vanilla. I think I'll try that next time...

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Who was your first friend on LiveJournal? Are they still on your Friends list?


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I'm pretty sure it was [info]elegant_musings, although [info]jennil wouldn't have been far behind. It was really a combined effort of both their pinching and prodding. I really came kicking and screaming... which is just hysterical to me now being the little LJ obsessed costumer I am today. And yes they are both on my FL. *blows kisses*

Oh and I once again missed my LJ birthday the first week of April. So my little corner of the LJ world is now 5 years old - wow can it really be that long ago?! Crazy!

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Saturday: my panel, drama, Historical Masquerade, the end

Sunday was nice laid back sort of day. I got dressed in a rush after the alarm didn't go off, our panel went well (or so everyone tells me). I spent the rest of the day wondering about chatting with friends, taking pics and gernerally being glad I waen't in the Masquerade and didn't have to iron anything. More champage, the Masquerade, the what-the-heck-just-happened seesions in hotel rooms, only a few goodbyes and to bed.

My pics can be found here: CC27: Sunday

videos below )

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Saturday: a class, lunch at Macaroni Grill, another champagne party & the Sci-Fi masquerade

Saturday was lovely. I got dressed leisurely, went to the only class I attended, had lots of fun in my bustle skirt and top hat, took lots of pics, ate a very late lunch at the Macaroni Grill (I didn't get lost!!), took more pics, chatted with friends, pawed Katherine's wardrobe, champagne and ate left-over baklava, changed into comfy Regency, watched the Sci-Fi Masquerade and went to bed early. Well I tried anyway. It was great!

My pics can be found here: CC27: Saturday

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Friday
Tea at Brightons, CC27 Social Night

Because of the amount of pics I took at CC27 I am breaking the albums up by days instead of putting them all in one. So on to Friday!

Friday was a good day. I enjoyed the quiet farm when I woke up, drove to Baltimore, got lost but made it to the hotel in one piece and in the rain no less, checked in, had bad hair that took three tries to look decent, threw on 18th century clothes, drove downtown, got lost again, drank tea, took lots of pics, dressed in sparkles & stars, was complemented on said sparkles by friends and strangers alike, drank half Aubry's cosmo, took more pics, laughed, hugged, drank champagne, danced to "I Want Candy", used 3 cotton pads and lots of eye-make remover to get all my eye make-up off and finally fell asleep in the wee hours of the morning thanks to all the champagne. It was fun!

My pics can be found here: CC27: Friday

videos below )

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Thursday
Tea at the Farm

Thursday was fabulous. I drove, got lost once, made sandwiches, took lots of pics, hung off a fence, drank champagne, had tea, talked, giggled, petted pretty costumes, promenaded around the lake and had more fun than should be allowed wearing my new jacket and petticoat. It was heaven! Thanks again to Loren for having us over and for everything!

My pics can be found here:
Tea at the Farm

videos below )

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So I'm ignoring all the things I should be doing right now, and am uploading pics to my site and videos to youtube from the weekend. It would probably take less time if I didn't do it at the same time but what can I say I'm impatient. I’ll post when they are all up and ready for viewing.

I'm also racking my brain for all the awesome icon ideas we came up with this weekend. I really should learn to write them down at the time, I never remember when I get home. I only remember they were awesome! Silly Jenny.

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I am gluing rhinestones. Dude this is tedious!!

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My "blue" hat now has a fabulously over the top midnight blue velvet pouf on top. *giggles* I'll work on the finishing ribbons and feathers etc later tonight when I'm too tired to sew.

Also my top hat has black dot netting artisically draped on it. I'm thinking it needs a feather too.

Yes and my sewing space and myself are covered in blue fuzz. Dude I thought the velveteen was bad!

Oh and Katherine your board was just delievered.

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Bustle skirt done!!

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Ooh, ooh I found the perfect fabric to finish off my blue hat in the stash... I'd forgotten I had it and it's perfect for what I want to do. I was feeling a bit lost with the project but
I'm excited now!!!

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Ruffle on the blue print done - which means the blue print outfit is totally done - yay!!

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Dispite working steadily yesterday I still have tons to do! Today's agenda:

finishing hemming bustle skirt (for the psudo, almost steampunk outfit I just came up with!)
finish pinning, sew ruffle on blue print skirt
glue all rhinestones on QotN
sew jewels on QofN skirt
finish trimming blue print hat
finish trimming top hat (for psudo, almost steampunk outfit)
make hair puffs for big hedgehogs & high hair

make cheese straws (for tea)
make devonshire cream (for tea)
pack!
clear out office for Aubry to sleep in tonight
nap

If I have any time leftover work on Pimpernel. *ha!*

I think the spamming of the friend's list with annoying sewing updates is called for again today...

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Blue print skirt panels sewn together, seams pressed. *check!*
Blue print skirt ruffle panels sewn together, seams pressed, hemmed and gathering stitches run.*check check!!*

I'm off to bed!

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Tweaks to front of QotN zone front finished. *check!*
Earring backs removed from moon earrings. *check!*
Former moon earrings sewn down to QotN front. *shiney check!*

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QotN waistband - done!

I did several layers of stacked pleats on the sides so I ended up doing more by hand than useal. Stacked pleats in velveteen = way thick that machine doesn't like. Turns out I'm in the mood for lazy handwork tonight so it's okay...

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la Jenny
Jenny La Fleur
Name: Jenny La Fleur
current madness
In Progress:
Francis Jennings, c1675
pimpernel revamp, c1785
stays, c1804
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